It’s hard to get past the massive shadow of the potato when prospective travelers think of Idaho’s culinary scene.
Yes, the Gem State is well-known for its spectacular spuds; but beyond tasty taters, visitors can expect to encounter unique and unexpected options that not only delight but demand further awareness and recognition. Enter the James Beard Awards.
These prestigious awards are the “Oscars” of cuisine—and being nominated as a semifinalist for one of its several restaurant or chef categories is enough to put a nominee on the must-try map.
Recently, the James Beard Awards announced its 2024 semifinalists for the Best Chef category in the Mountain Region (Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Utah and Wyoming)—and once again, four Idaho chefs received nominations. Idaho is no stranger to James Beard recognition, and last year a local restauranteur claimed Best Chef honors, for the first time.
Read on to learn what this nomination (a three-peat for some!) means to these individuals and how it spotlights and inspires their respective culinary journeys.
Salvador Alamilla, Amano | Caldwell
Chef Alamilla’s culinary journey is a testament to the transformative power of food and culture. Through his dedication to preserving culinary traditions and pushing boundaries, he continues to inspire and elevate Idaho’s culinary scene. At Amano, every dish tells a story—a story of passion, heritage and innovation.
This year’s nomination marks Chef Alamilla’s third consecutive as a semifinalist—an honor filled with gratitude, accomplishment and humility as well as excitement for his dedicated staff. “[The nominations] are a reminder of how far we’ve come … and [I’m] humbled by still getting recognized on this national level,” Alamilla says.
The James Beard impact goes beyond personal recognition, extending to the establishment’s ability to evolve its menu. “We definitely see an increase in awareness [at Amano], and it gives us the opportunity to be able to showcase dishes that use ancestral methods that may not have been as accepted when we first opened,” he acknowledges. The continued recognition also demonstrates the culinary diversity and talent present in small communities like Caldwell. “It shows you don’t have to be in a big city to do cool things,” he adds.
Alamilla’s culinary approach is drawn from the rich tapestry of Mexican flavors and techniques he experienced growing up. “I love digging into different regions of Mexico to get inspired for our menu or beverage program,” he reveals. “It gives me an opportunity to share my passion for my culture with everyone, so they see how beautiful Mexico is.”
Representing his cultural heritage through food holds profound meaning. “I feel proud that someone who looks like me, speaks like me, and was undocumented as a little boy, could grow up to have this opportunity,” he shares. “Twenty years ago, I didn’t see chefs like me. I am humbled and happy to help pave the way so that there is more representation, and in turn, opportunities for all.”
For those eager to explore Amano’s menu, Alamilla recommends the following:
- Beef Tartara Tostada—a reinterpretation of traditional carne apache, featuring Certified Angus Beef sirloin, vegetables, crema Mexicana, avocado and a housemade sesame-seed tostada prepared with nixtamalized corn.
- Baja Cali Fish Tacos—a longstanding menu item that has evolved to include Fairweather Fish Co. wild-caught Alaskan lingcod, salsa verde, mayo crema, housemade Tapatio salsa and hand-rolled flour tortillas.
- Mole Verde—a vegan dish showcasing a cauliflower steak, pistachio-poblano mole, local pea shoots and Cónico Azul heirloom corn from Oaxaca.
- Suavecito—a fun, smooth cocktail for those wanting to dip their toes into mezcal.
Dan Ansotegui, Ansots | Boise
In the cozy enclave of Ansots, Chef Dan Ansotegui, along with co-owner and daughter Ellie Ansotegui and their team, weave a culinary narrative steeped in Basque tradition and family heritage.
As a James Beard Best Chef semifinalist for three consecutive years, the honor brings astonishment and pride. “Every year is a surprise and a bit of disbelief,” Ansotegui divulges. “We joke that we think it must be a mistake because we do not consider ourselves chefs at all, let alone someone deserving of such an honor. But we know that so much of it has to do with the people we have here at the restaurant to make sure the food we are serving is everything we hope it to be.”
“The nominations show us that Basque food is worthy of being considered as some of the finest food in the world,” he conveys. “We pride ourselves on making sure that everything we do is done in a way and with an end result that my immigrant grandparents, and my own parents—Ellie’s grandparents—would sit down to a meal here and be very happy with what we are serving. Because, Lord knows, they would let us know if there was something wrong.”
Ansotegui notes the impact of the Best Chef nomination on his community’s burgeoning food scene and what that means for the people behind the apron. “I think it raises awareness that Boise is a foodie city,” he asserts. “It brings attention to those many chefs and local restaurateurs who are working their tails off each and every day to give people a restaurant experience that people talk about. Most of these chefs are never recognized, but should be, and I am happy to represent those who do not get mentioned but who are doing amazing work and putting out incredible food.”
This culinary approach appears to be working well for Ansots. “Our numbers have definitely increased; but more than that, we are getting people who may never have thought to try Ansots—or even a Basque chorizo— to come visit us and walk away with a pleasant surprise for the day,” he remarks.
Unfamiliar with Basque cuisine? Ansotegui recommends two must-try menu items: Presa and Lamb Txilindron. The Presa is a Denver pork steak—served with chimichurri, garlic crostini and arugula salad—offering a tantalizing blend of flavors and textures. “[It’s] like something I’ve never tasted,” he exclaims. “It resembles a beef steak with its marbling and tenderness, and yet its caramelization reminds you of a fine chop.”
The Lamb Txilindron is a slow-cooked Basque stew centered around a leg of lamb. The three-hour simmer results in “an incredible tenderness and subtleness that is not usual with lamb,” Ansotegui affirms.
Heather Logan & Ben Barlow, Stanley Supper Club | Stanley
In the heart of central Idaho’s Sawtooth Valley, where jagged snow-capped peaks meet serene alpine lakes, lies the Stanley Supper Club—a cozy space where patrons indulge in exquisite flavors amid rustic ambiance. At its helm are chefs Heather Logan and Ben Barlow, whose culinary journey from a guest ranch kitchen to receiving their first James Beard Best Chef nomination is as inspiring as it is delicious.
The duo met in 2012 while working together in the kitchen at Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch near Stanley. Their shared passion for food and adventure ignited a partnership that led them to Seattle, where they honed their crafts while working for notable establishments—and James Beard-nominated chefs—in the Emerald City’s fine dining and bakery scenes. But Logan and Barlow found themselves drawn back to Stanley, a place they had always considered home. “Heather and I could never stay away from Stanley for long, visiting every year and always dreaming of settling down there,” Barlow admits on the Stanley Supper Club website.
Their vision materialized into reality with the inception of Stanley Supper Club in 2020. “Our dream was to create something that had the best of both worlds; a homey place where you can relax and where simple food is prepared with skill and great care,” Barlow clarifies.
During an interview with the Idaho Mountain Express, Logan shared that their culinary philosophy bridges the gap between sophistication and approachability “We’re not a fancy restaurant, we are a good restaurant. Everything is homemade and done with the heart,” she claims.
Stanley Supper Club offers a diverse array of dishes to cater to every palate. From belly-filling fried chicken dinners and inventive pasta dishes to decadent three-layer cakes, each creation at the supper club is infused with passion and creativity. “It’s fun to expand people’s palates,” Barlow states.
Speaking to the Idaho Mountain Express regarding their James Beard nomination, the duo conveys “both excitement and apprehension” along with the realization that maintaining their original goal of being “low-key and accessible” may prove challenging with the notoriety that comes with the heralded honor. “Moving to the mountains in the middle of Idaho, we did not think we’d be on anyone’s radar,” Logan confesses.
But the recognition is not just a validation of their culinary talent; it’s a celebration of their journey and a testament to the power of following one’s passion.
As they await an undisclosed visit from James Beard judges, followed by the announcement of finalists in April, Logan and Barlow remain grounded in their mission to deliver an exceptional yet approachable dining experience—one delectable dish at a time.
Featured image credited to Stanley Supper Club.
Published on February 20, 2024
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